Rock Climbing on Mount Kenya

For information only.

Because of Mt. Kenya’s unique position on the equator, climbing seasons and route conditions vary with the sun’s position. For example, a climber interested in doing one of the best ice routes, which are on the south side of the mountain, should climb when the sun is in the north, between the months of June and December.

However, during the same period the east and north sides are in the best condition for rock climbing. Conversely, when the sun is in the south, the south side offers the best rock routes and north the better ice climbing conditions.

Recommended routes

December-March
Normal Route, Standard IV (rock: South West Ridge, Standard V (rock routes).

June-September
North Face, Standard IV (rock Route).

Note; technical climbing in Mount Kenya needs a well-trained rock climber. For any climber not confident enough we highly recommend you to hire a rock climbing guide to lead the climb. The hiring of the guide is extra – charges are Usd 600 per client payable directly to the guide before the start of the climb.

In case of accidents while climbing, we have rescue team managed by Kenya Wildlife Services.

Rock Climbing on Mount Kenya

Climb the Second Highest Mountain in Africa - (BATIAN 5,169M AND /OR NELION 5158M.)

 6 DAYS ROCK CLIMBING – Batian peak ( north face , standard route) 

 Day 1. Naromoru – Sirimon gate- Judmaier camp.

Arrive at Naromoru by 1000hrs where you start sorting personal equipment for the mountain trek. Then be driven to the Sirimon Park Gate where you sign and start a 3hrs hike through the equatorial forest to the camp for overnight (3,300m) Packed lunch is served on route. An easy trek in the afternoon to help acclimatization.  Overnight Judmaier Camp (3300m) in the high altitude mountain tents.

Camp; Judmaier camp 3,080m/ 10,000ft.
Accommodation facility; High altitude tents- camping.
Trekking time; 3 hours.
Distance; 9 km.
Rating; Medium.
Altitude gained; 400m.

Day 2. Judmaier camp – Shiptons camp.

After breakfast hike up through Sirimon Track to Likii North Valley then crossover into the Mackinders Valley, one of the broadest valleys on the mountain, with many giant groundsels. The camp is set at the head of the Mackinder’s Valley, just below the main peaks of Batian and Nelion. Overnight at  Shiptons Camp in high altitude tents- Full board.

Camp; Shiptons camp 4,300m/ 14,200 ft.
Accommodation facility; High altitude tents- camping.
Trekking time; 6- 7 hours.
Distance; 13 km.
Rating; Medium.
Altitude gained; 300m.

Day 3. Shiptons camp – Pt.Lenana 4985m – Shiptons camp

A per-dawn start at 0400hrs is made to ensure a successful summit bid and in time for clear view of the majestic scenery after sunrise. With the help of the guide ascent to the third highest peak ( point lenana -4985 m, 4- 5 hr), at the peak on a clear day you can be able to see Uhuru peak of Mt. Kilimanjaro- a few minutes for celebration and photos. Afternoon proceed to hike down back to Shiptons camp for breakfast and rest- The climb helps cleints to acclimatize before attempting the highest peak.

Afternoon meet with the Rock Climbing guide for briefying and sorting of the climbing equipments. Dinner and overnight at the camp.

Peak Summited; Point Lenana, 4985m/ 16355ft
Camp; Shiptons camp 4,300m, 14,200ft.
Accommodation facility; High altitude tents- camping.
Trekking time; 8 hours
Distance; 8 km.
Rating; High.
Altitude gained; 700m.

Day 4. Rock climbing- attempt Pt. Batian.

Early start accompanied by the guide attempt Point Batian 5,188M via Northface, standard route, Grade IV, Very difficult.

The climb takes 10hrs – it all depends with experience of the climber, pace and weather. To be on top by midday- on aclear day you will enjoy great views from the top. After celebration and photo session start to descend down to Shiptons camp to arrive at the camp late afternoon for dinner and overnight.

Peak; Point Batian, 5188m/ 17,120 ft
Camp; Shitons camp 4300m/ 14,200 ft
Accommodation facility; Mountain huts.
Trekking time; 10 hours
Distance; 700 m
Rating; Very High.
Altitude gained; 750 m.

Day 5. Extra day- Climb Batian.

Spare day in case of bad weather.

 Day 6. Shiptons camp – Judmair camp.

After breakfast hike down through the moorland to Judmaeir camp where you will find vehicle waiting to transfer you Naromoru river lodge.

Camp; Naromoru – 1,970m/ 6,500ft.
Trekking time; 5 hours.
Distance; 12 km.
Rating; Medium.

END.

Rock Climbing equipment List
  • 02 Ropes :- 01 dry treated dynamic climbing rope.(10.5mm x 50m) and 01 sport rope (9mmx50m)
  • Sitting harness.
  • Repel Device.
  • Locking carabineers: – D-shaped locking and non locking carabineers.
  • Slings (several)
  • Ascension ascenders (right and left).
  • Daisy chain
  • 01 Rack: – tri-cam, hexes, nuts, quick draw oval.